Normal Wheel settings for any sim race game in Windows/the Wheel software with my G25. Overall effects strength 100 (can move up and down depending on how you like it) Spring Effect and /damper effect Strength at 0 these are for canned effects (also 0 in game) Centering Spring off Degrees of Rotation 900 in my case works for all good sims. With a 900/1080 wheel, you have to throw more turns for the same angle so more effort there but also more precision allowed. I'll be real with you though; drifting in game with any wheel is fuckin' HARD. On controller you can go lock to lock in an instant so much easier to catch the wayward tail. 3. wztrbrg666. Wheel support and FFB feels really bad after the patch. 2 days ago it was fine but now its way to weak. what happened with the feedback⦠is anyone having the same issues? to clarify i use a logitech g920 steering wheel with 900 degrees settings. vibration and FFB strenght are both on 100%. A 2000 KG car feels a lot lighter than a 600 KG car used to feel before the patch. I canāt get good Funny,. If only Fh4 had the option to choose which class (and racetype) you can race online (like fh3) this all would be less of a problem since we could stick with a certain car for a few sessions before switching cars & settings.
Steering sensitivity: How much you have to turn the wheel before reaching full turning in game. So if it takes 2 full turns of your real life wheel to reach full steering at normal sensitivity, then turning the setting to double sensitivity means it will only take you 1 full turn in real life to reach max turn in game.
Also make sure you use "Normal" steering setting and not "Simulation" under difficulty settings in Forza Horizon 4, cause that "simulation" setting is just a trash and it's far away from being real-life simulation. Changing default 900 degrees rotation to 600 degrees also helps to catch your drifts way better, you might want to try that as well. KwKNz.